Tales From Granny Squannit: Wampanoag Clambake, An Indigenous Tradition:

Creator, Great Spirit, Dear Lord Jesus

Let’s get the invisible history and heritage of clambakes, which I feel is ebbing, down traditionally. I’ve seen announcements about, for example, a New England Clambake, an Ocean State Clambake, a Cape Cod Clambake and a Little Neck Clambake detailing how people are preparing clambakes.

But too rarely do I see much about a Wampanoag Clambake with a trace of its history or heritage of the original people who created this elaborate gathering of seafood and vegetables.

People come to Cape Cod from all over the world, and many have probably never heard of a clambake. Even folks who live here may not know the history. I have no issue with organizations or families preparing a clambake; however, people should know the centuries-old history that happened right off—and on—the shores of Cape Cod by our Indigenous ancestors.

Long attributed as a “traditional New England” method of steam-cooking seafood, the clambake actually derives from an ancient Wampanoag (and other coastal Indigenous people) way of preparing shellfish and other accompanying foods.

In pre-contact times, bakes were done right on the beach. Everything needed for the bake was right there. Various types of shellfish or fish were readily available and the rockweed and stones were easily accessible. A pit would be dug and lined with stones. A fire was then lit, burning for two, three hours or more to heat the rocks to the point of being red-hot.

The ashes were then brushed away and people worked quickly to maximize the heat of the stones. A layer of rockweed was placed on the stones. Rockweed is a type of seaweed whose fronds have bubbles; thus, the use of rockweed provides moisture and salt for flavoring. This is what creates the steam that cooks the food and gives it its wonderful flavor.

The fish, shellfish, corn on the cob and other food was then placed on the rockweed and covered over with another layer of the same. This might then be covered with a mat to help hold in the steam and concentrate it to more quickly cook the food. When ready the mat was removed, the rockweed raked away—and dinner was ready.

Cooking takes approximately one hour, depending on the size of the bake. Also, let’s not forget the homemade quahog chowder that is served!

Traditional Indigenous cooking on the beach made cleanup easy, as the tides would reclaim the rocks and rockweed and fill the pit back in, leaving no evidence of the feast that took place.

In the present day, many Wampanoag people still practice this ancient way of cooking. A few changes have been made to the method and some new foods added to the menu. Just earlier this summer, at the 104th Annual Mashpee Wampanoag Powwow, the annual clambake was held in honor of the late June “Green Fire Lightning Woman” Tiexeira, Medicine Woman, who was our beloved “clambake master” for more than 25 years.

Today, a main ingredient of the clambake is lobster, in addition to the clams. Corn is also still part of the meal, with the newer additions of white potato, sweet potato, onion, a piece of fish such as cod and a piece of linguiça (Portuguese sausage). All the vegetables, the fish and the two meats are wrapped together in a cheesecloth bundle.

Brown bread completes the list of foods to be steamed with sea flavor.

For more information, you could read “Indian New England Before The Mayflower” by Howard S. Russell (1980). Or “Cape Cod Wampanoag Cookbook: Wampanoag Indian Recipes, Images & Lore” by Earl Mills Sr., Chief Flying Eagle, Mashpee Wampanoag and Betty Breen (2001) and “Clambake: A Wampanoag Tradition” by Russell M. Peters and John Madema (1992).

Just remember: Wampanoag Clambake (Appanaug) is older than all of us; Our ancestors taught us and shared it with your ancestors. And you now know its origin.

We do not want to lose our Indigenous history!

Dr. Edward “Standing Pipe” Avant, Joan’s son, contributed to this column.

Joan Tavares Avant, MEd, is a member of the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe, Wampanoag Deer Clan mother and a former director of the Mashpee School District’s Indian Education Program. She can be reached at turtle5avant@comcast.net.